KUMANO KODO Trek - 6 days | Nakahechi, Takijiri to Nachi | 2
Rating & Reviews
4.8
Description
This is the classic Kumano Kodo Nakahechi trek from Takijiri-oji to Kumano Nachi Taisha via Hongu, with 4.5 days of walking.
Overnights along the way feature hot spring baths and delicious, authentic Japanese food. An immersive experience for the adventurous pilgrim.
It is a challenging multi-day walk so being fit and prepared is important. Walks can be shortened or skip with the use of public transport.
Route: Kyoto/Osaka | Tanabe | Takahara | Nonaka | Hongu | Kawayu Onsen | Koguchi | Nachi-Katsuura | Osaka/Kyoto
Duration: 6 days & 5 nights (5.5 days walking)
Overnight: Tanabe, Chikatsuyu, Kawayu Onsen, Koguchi, Katsuura Onsen
Overall Level: Advanced
Type: Self-guided or guided
Transportation: Train, Bus, Walk
Daily Luggage Shuttle: Available for all days
Walking Difficult: Day 1=2.5, Day 2=3.5, Day 3=4, Day 4=4, Day 5=5
What is walking difficulty?
Recommended For: Active walkers, with experience doing multiday walks in a mountain environment.
Self-guided Package tour departures!
WHAT IS A MODEL ITINERARY? Model Itineraries are sample travel plans to help you organize your trip, an easy way to add contents to your cart that match your itinerary. These are not package tours. You can use them as they are, adjust them to your needs, or contact us for more ideas. |
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PRICE Price depends on which accommodations and services you book. All prices are online for your reference. |
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- DAY 1
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Train from Osaka/Kyoto to Kii-Tanabe (~3 hrs)
Stay in Tanabe
- DAY 2
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Bus from Kii-Tanabe to Takijiri (~40 min)
Walk from Takijiri-oji to Chikatsuyu-oji (~13 km, 6~8 hr) (shorter options possible)
Stay in Chikatsuyu area
- DAY 3
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Walk Chikatsuyu-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha (~25 km, 9~12 hrs) (shorter options possible)
Bus from Hongu to Kawayu Onsen (~10 min)
Stay in Kawayu Onsen
- DAY 4
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Bus from Kawayu Onsen to Ukegawa (~10 min)
Walk Ukegawa to Koguchi (~13 km, 4.5~6 hr)
Stay in Koguchi
- DAY 5
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Walk Koguchi to Kumano Nachi Taisha (~14 km, 7~9 hrs)
Stay in Katsuura
- DAY 6
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Train from Kii-Katsuura to next destination
Itinerary Map
Highlights
Soak in Kawayu Onsen
Hongu area's unique river hot spring village with centuries of history.Detailed Itinerary
OVERVIEW
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PREPARATION
Preparation and planning is the key to a safe trek in the sacred Kumano mountains.
Choose a route that you have adequate experience and physical strength to safely complete.
Wear appropriate clothing and footwear, and carry necessary gear.
NOTE: Details sometimes change, especially bus schedules, so please double-check times before your trip. If you notice something incorrect, please let us know. Thank you! -
WHEN TO VISIT
The Nakahechi route is open year round.
Summer can be hot and humid, and winter has a slight possibility of snow at higher elevations (from end of December to end of February) although it usually melts shortly it falls. The winter months have shorter daylight hours.
Japanese national holidays and long-weekends can be busy so best to avoid (especially golden week in the beginning of May and Obon mid-August).
NOTE: It is often best to come mid-week as capacity is limited in smaller villages along the trail.
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RESOURCES
There are many useful resources related to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes. Please use these to make the most of your trip.
Maps and Official Guide Book, are available onsite in Tanabe. Online “Pilgrim Packs” including these materials can be mailed in advance. -
INCLUSIONS
The itinerary below is a sample.
Only the products and services that you book are included. For example if you would like lunch boxes or daily luggage shuttle, these must be reserved in advance. They are not included unless you book them.
Transportation fees are not included. It is easy to pay transport costs as you go. -
GUIDED or SELF-GUIDED
This model itinerary can be done guided or self-guided.
1. Self-guided. Use the detailed information online and onsite to complete your walk independently.
2. Guided. Hire a local guide to have some comradery on the trail while experiencing the region’s rich culture.
3. Partly-guided. Or have the best of both! Hire a guide for the first day to get you going and then complete the itinerary on your own.
NOTE: The itinerary below is based on option 1. Self-guided -
LUGGAGE OPTIONS
There are a few options for your luggage.
1. Daily Luggage Shuttle. Luggage is transferred to your accommodation everyday (This is often the most popular option. If required, please book when making your accommodation reservations).
2. Next-day or Later Luggage Shuttle can be arranged onsite without reservations at local convenience stores.
NOTE: The itinerary below is based on option 1. Daily Luggage Shuttle -
MEALS
Immersing oneself in local cuisine is part of the Kumano experience.
1. At Accommodations. Meals are most often served in accommodations in rural areas, as options for eating outside are limited to non-existent. (Eating the set meals at accommodations is the most common and convenient option.)
2. Lunch Boxes. Lunch boxes are provided by most accommodations along the Kumano Kodo (in the Hongu area can be delivered to your lodging in the morning).
3. Special Dietary Needs. Special meal requests such as vegetarian or specific allergies must be made at the time of booking. Vegetarianism is not common in Japan, especially in the countryside, so please double-check to confirm which types of vegetarian meals are available. Often being able to eat trace amounts of the ubiquitous Dashi fish stock makes it easier to find options.
NOTE: The itinerary below is based on meals supplied 1. At Accommodations with 2. Lunch Boxes when available.
DAY 1
Transfer to Tanabe
Overnight: Tanabe
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DAY 1 OVERVIEW
DAY ONE is a transfer to Tanabe by train with the option of exploring the area and enjoying delicious local food at a nearby izakaya restaurant. -
TRAIN FROM OSAKA TO KII-TANABE
Take the limited express JR Kuroshio from Shin-Osaka to "Kii-Tanabe" Station. Departure times vary. -
VISIT TANABE TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER
This information center is next to the Kii-Tanabe station as you exit on the left.
There are paper copies of maps and transportation timetables as well as Dual Pilgrim credential to collect stamps along the trail.
This is the best place to get the most up-to-date information before you begin your walk! -
VISIT TANABE
Tanabe is a small coastal city on the west side of the Kii Peninsula, well known for its agricultural products such as ume (Japanese Apricots) and oranges, as well its fresh seafood.
The downtown area is located southwest of the Kii-Tanabe train station, from which a ten minute walk leads to the Ogigahama beach.
Near the station is Tokei-jinja, a main shrine at the junction of the Nakahechi and Ohechi routes.
INTERESTING FACT: Ueshiba Morihei, the founder of the Aikido martial, was born in Tanabe. -
OVERNIGHT IN TANABE
There are a diversity of guesthouses and business style hotels in Tanabe.
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SUPPER
The entertainment area in front of the JR Kii-Tanabe station is called “Ajikoji” and is packed with over 200 restaurants and Japanese style pubs (Izakaya).
It is considered to be the most concentrated of its kind for a city of this size in the entire country of Japan. Every alley is full of quaint places to eat and drink.
Many restaurants have English menus. Ask at the information center for recommendations.
Kanpai!
DAY 2
Walk Kumano Kodo, Takijiri-oji to Chikatsuyu
Overnight: Chikatsuyu
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DAY 2 OVERVIEW
DAY TWO is a transfer to the trailhead at Takijiri-oji and full day walk on the Kumano Kodo to Chikatsuyu village.
NOTE: The Kumano Kodo is a mountain trail, therefore walking times vary greatly depending on weather, season, personal experience, and fitness. Please plan accordingly for a safe walk, as many people underestimate the difficulty of the terrain. -
BREAKFAST
At accommodation.
PICK UP LUNCH BOX
It is usually easiest to order your lunch box from the accommodation. Book a lunch box plan to take advantage of this service. -
LUGGAGE SHUTTLE
Leave luggage at accommodation.
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BUS FROM KII-TANABE STATION TO TAKIJIRI (Meiko Bus)
Depart: 8:02 Kii-Tanabe
Arrive: 8:40 Takijiri
Busses depart from bus stop two in front of the station.
PRICE: 970 yen
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VISIT KUMANO KODO KAN PILGRIMAGE CENTER
The round Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center is located across the river from Takijiri-oji.
There are introductory exhibitions in Japanese and English about the pilgrimage route.
Toilets and vending machines are available.
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VISIT TAKIJIRI-OJI
Takijiri-oji is one of the main trailheads of the Nakahechi route.
It is here that the passage into the sacred mountains begins—the entrance to the abode of the gods and Buddhist paradises of rebirth.
There were once extensive halls, a bath house, lodgings for pilgrims, and residences for priests, priestesses and monks in the area.
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WALK KUMANO KODO - TAKIJIRI-OJI TO CHIKATSUYU
Distance: ~14 km
Time: 6~8 hr
Elevation Gain: ~1010 m
Elevation Loss: ~840 m
This is a short but steep uphill walk from Takijiri to the ridge top settlement of Takahara. From Takahara the trail continues over a pass arriving in Chikatsuyu village.
NOTE: The trail starts off with a challenging grade so set a slow, easy pace, watching your steps on the rocks and roots.Kumano Kodo Map 1
Kumano Kodo Map 2 -
VISIT TAKAHARA
Takahara is a small settlement on a ridgeline with panoramic views of the Hatenashi mountain range.
It is the site of the mystical Takahara Kumano-jinja shrine, one of the oldest buildings along this section of the pilgrimage route. The shrine grounds are home to giant camphor trees, over 800 years old!
Takahara is known as "Kiri-no-Sato" (Village in the Mist) because the scenic vistas are often blanketed with mist. The valley below dramatically fills with fog, creating a beautiful sea of clouds. -
LUNCH
Picnic lunch along the trail.
NOTE: Buying lunch in Tanabe before boarding the bus is often the best option. -
VISIT CHIKATSUYU
The village after Takahara is Chikatsuyu where the clear Hiki-gawa river runs through the valley.
Pass through Chikatsuyu towards Tsugizakura-oji. -
OVERNIGHT IN CHIKATSUYU
There are some minshuku guesthouses and rental houses in Chikatsuyu.
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SUPPER
At accommodation.
DAY 3
Walk Kumano Kodo, Chikatsuyu-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha
Overnight: Kawayu Onsen
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DAY 3 OVERVIEW
This is a challenging full day walk with many climbs and descents, finishing at the Kumano Hongu Taisha.
The mid-section is a permanent detour over the pass. The trail from Hosshinmon-oji to Hongu is popular with a diversity of forested trail and settlement scenery.
There are a few ways to shorten this walk, three options are outlined below. Feel free to choose which option on the day of your walk.
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BREAKFAST
At accommodation.
PICK UP LUNCH BOX
It is usually easiest to order your lunch box from the accommodation. Book a lunch box plan to take advantage of this service. -
LUGGAGE SHUTTLE
Leave luggage at accommodation.
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Option 1 (Full Walk)
WALK KUMANO KODO - CHIKATSUYU-OJI TO KUMANO HONGU TAISHADistance: ~25 km
Time: 9~12 hr
Elevation Gain: ~1210 m
Elevation Loss: ~1470 m
This is a challenging full day walk with many climbs and descents, finishing at the Kumano Hongu Taisha.
Best to start early if attempting the full walk.Kumano Kodo Map 1
Kumano Kodo Map 2
Walk Options -
Option 2 (Intermediate Walk)
WALK KUMANO KODO - DOYUKAWA-BASHI BUS STOP TO KUMANO HONGU TAISHADistance: ~17 km
Time: 6~9 hr
Elevation Gain: ~770 m
Elevation Loss: ~1170 m
BUS FROM CHIKATSUYU TO DOYUKAWA-BASHI (Ryujin Bus)Depart: 7:23 Chikatsuyu-oji
Arrive: 7:33 Doyukawa-bashiPRICE: 280 yen
Kumano Kodo Map 1
Kumano Kodo Map 2
Walk Options
Bus Timetable #1 -
Option 3 (Highlight Walk)
WALK KUMANO KODO - HOSSHINMON-OJI TO KUMANO HONGU TAISHADistance: ~7.5 km
Time: 2~3 hr
Elevation Gain: ~190 m
Elevation Loss: ~460 m
The section from Hosshinmon-oji and Hongu is popular with a diversity of forested trail and settlement scenery. This a good option to give more time to experience the shrines and sites in Hongu. Take a local bus from Chikatsuyu-oji to Hosshimon-oji.
BUS FROM CHIKATSUYU TO HOSSHINMON-OJI (Ryujin Bus)Depart: 7:23 Chikatsuyu-oji
Arrive: 8:37 Hosshinmon-ojiPRICE: 970 yen
NOTE: With this shorter walk often people include the Dainichi-goe route in the afternoon (Hongu to Yunomine Onsen) (~2 km, 1~2 hr). -
LUNCH
Picnic lunch along the trail.
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VISIT KUMANO HONGU TAISHA
One of the three grand shrines, Kumano Hongu Taisha stands on a small ridge line in the north of the Hongu village.
The austere pavilions are made of wood with impressive cypress bark roofs; it's architecture style dating back over 800 years.
Watch for the sacred symbol of Kumano, the Yatagarasu three-legged crow.
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VISIT KUMANO HONGU HERITAGE CENTER
This visitor center is on the east side route 311 across from the Kumano Hongu Taisha grand shrine.
It has detailed information and exhibits about the area in English.
HOURS: 9:00~17:00 (open year-round)
NOTE: Registration as DUAL PILGRIM takes place here. It takes at least 15 minutes and cannot be mailed out.Kumano Hongu Heritage Center
Dual Pilgrim -
VISIT OYUNOHARA
Kumano Hongu Taisha was originally located at Oyunohara, a sandbank at the confluence of the Kumano-gawa and Otonashi Rivers.
Legend has it that the Kumano deities, in the form of three moons, descended into the branches of a giant oak tree in this clearing.
All of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes lead to this sacred site.
The entrance to Oyunohara is marked by the largest Torii shrine gate in the world (33.9 meters tall and 42 meters wide). It is a formalized gateway that designates the entrance to a sacred area and signifies the division of the secular and the spiritual worlds. -
BUS FROM HONGU TO KAWAYU ONSEN (Nara Kotsu)
Depart: 16:58 Hongu Taisha-mae
Arrive: 17:19 Kawayu Onsen
Busses depart from in front of the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center.
PRICE: 310 yen
NOTE: After the 16:58 bus there is a long wait until the next one. For Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays, the 16:23 bus (not the 16:58) is the best option available.
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VISIT KAWAYU ONSEN
Kawayu Onsen is a small settlement along the Oto-gawa River: a geological thermal wonder where hot spring water bubbles to the surface of the river.
On the north side of the river is a collection of accommodations. On the south side of the river is a green forested mountainside. -
OVERNIGHT IN KAWAYU ONSEN
There is a diversity of accommodations in Kawayu Onsen such as Ryokan inns, Minshuku lodgings, each with their own hot spring baths.
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SUPPER
At accommodation.
DAY 4
Walk Kumano Kodo, Ukegawa to Koguchi
Overnight: Koguchi
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DAY 4 OVERVIEW
DAY FOUR is a full day walk from Hongu south on the Kogumotori-goe section of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route to the small village of Koguchi. -
BREAKFAST
At accommodation.
PICK UP LUNCH BOX
It is usually easiest to order your lunch box from the accommodation. Book a lunch box plan to take advantage of this service. -
LUGGAGE SHUTTLE
Leave luggage at accommodation.
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BUS FROM KAWAYU ONSEN TO UKEGAWA (Kumano Kotsu)
Depart: 8:39 Kawayu Onsen
Arrive: 8:44 Ukegawa -
WALK KUMANO KODO "KOGUMOTORI-GOE" - UKEGAWA TO KOGUCHI
Distance: ~13 km
Time: 4.5~6 hr
Elevation Gain: ~670 m
Elevation Loss: ~690 m
The Kogumotori-goe is a pass over a mountain range between Hongu and Koguchi.
The northern section is a gradual climbing gradient, mid-section has some ups and downs, and the southern descent is the steepest portion. -
LUNCH
Picnic lunch along the trail.
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VISIT KOGUCHI
Koguchi is a tiny settlement in a valley bottom surrounding by lush green mountains, the stopping point for walkers between the Kogumotori-goe and Ogumotorie-goe sections.
Several small rivers converge here, offering enticing swimming sites in the summer months. -
OVERNIGHT IN KOGUCHI
There is limited accommodations in Koguchi. If these are not available then transferring to a nearby village is an option, such as Kumano-gawa or Takata.
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SUPPER
At accommodation.
DAY 5
Walk Kumano Kodo, Koguchi to Kumano Nachi Taisha
Overnight: Nachi-Katsuura
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DAY 5 OVERVIEW
DAY FIVE is a full day walk from Koguchi south on the Ogumotori-goe section of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route to the shrine-temple complex of Nachisan and Japan's tallest waterfall.
This is considered one of the most difficult sections on the Nakahechi route: Not technically difficult but some long climbs and descents often with cobblestone lined trails, which can be slipperly, especially when wet. -
BREAKFAST
At accommodation.
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LUGGAGE SHUTTLE
Leave luggage at accommodation.
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WALK KUMANO KODO "OGUMOTORI-GOE" - KOGUCHI TO NACHISAN
Distance: ~14 km
Time: 7~9 hr
Elevation Gain: ~1260 m
Elevation Loss: ~930 m
The Ogumotori-goe connects Koguchi and Kumano Nachi Taisha, site of the divine Nachi-no-Otaki, Japan's tallest waterfall.
This is often considered the most difficult section on the Nakahechi route, so best to give yourself enough time to complete the walk.
As there are no escape routes, if one doesn't feel up to the challenge, take public transit to Shingu and then onto the shrine grounds. -
LUNCH
Picnic lunch along the trail.
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VISIT SEIGANTO-JI
Seiganto-ji temple was founded in the early 5th century and is one of the oldest buildings in the region.
The view from the temple grounds is dramatic, featuring a pagoda with the falls as a backdrop.
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VISIT KUMANO NACHI TAISHA
One of the three grand shrines, Kumano Nachi Taisha is located halfway up Nachi Mountain, about 350 meters above sea level.
It has its religious origin in the ancient nature worship of Nachi-no-Otaki falls.
The branches of a giant camphor shades the roof of the worship hall.
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VISIT NACHI FALLS
Nachi-no-Otaki is 133 meters high and 13 meters wide - the tallest waterfall in Japan.
It's water source is the surrounding broad-leaf evergreen primeval forest, a sanctuary that has been protected since ancient times, used for ascetic training by mountain monks who practice Shugendo, a mixed religion of foreign and indigenous beliefs.
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BUS FROM NACHI TO KATSUURA (Kumano Gobo Nankai Bus)
Depart: 17:04 Nachi-no-Taki-mae
Arrive: 17:28 Kii-KatsuuraPRICE: 630 yen
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OVERNIGHT IN KATSUURAThere are a diversity of Ryokan, Minshuku, and Guesthouses in Katsuura, so with coastal views, and many with hot spring baths.
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SUPPER
At accommodation.
DAY 6
Katsuura Departure
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DAY 6 OVERVIEW
DAY SIX is the last morning of the visit. Spend some time in the morning to re-visit the shrine grounds and falls area before the crowds arrive or explore Katsuura before departure.
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BREAKFAST
At accommodation.
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BUS FROM NACHI TO KATSUURA (Kumano Kotsu)
Depart: 9:44 Nachi-no-Taki-mae
Arrive: 10:08 Kii-KatsuuraPRICE: 630 yen
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VISIT KATSUURA
Katsuura Onsen is a fishing port on the rugged Pacific coastline.
This coastal village is famous for its hot spring baths and world-class seafood.
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LUNCH
There are a diversity of small restaurants near the station. Ask at the tourist information office in the Kii-Katsuura station.
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TRAIN FROM KII-KATSUURA TO OSAKA (JR Kuroshio 26)
Depart: 13:46 Kii-Katsuura
Arrive: 17:50 Shin-Osaka
TIP: Sit on the lefthand side of the train for the best coastal views. -
OTHER OPTIONS
There are a few options after the trek including the following:
1. Visiting the Kumano Hayatama Taisha in Shingu before taking the train to Osaka.
2. Staying another night in the Katsuura area to enjoy some downtime to recuperate from the walk.
3. Head east up the coast towards Ise and Nagoya.