A confession: I don’t care much for shrines. I respect religion, I have belief, but I find men flimsy, and what they make, even flimsier. On the 4th day of my trip, I washed my hands at the Kumano Hongu Taisha, before pressing on. I had ground down my heels, my pride, my sense of self, my sense of anything. Next to the train station, I was picked up by the host, an experienced hiker himself and a Hokkaido native brought south by the cold. We chatted about bears, my fears and fascination with them; he warned that playing dead did not suffice, that fighting back, making yourself big, was one’s only chance at survival. At 5’2”, I wasn’t sure if that was a viable option. The cottage was a comfortable apartment for one, equipped with all the decadent amenities of civilization: a plush duvet, a fully-stocked kitchen, a washing machine, an ash tray. It was a different story outside. You never see an expanse of sky like this in the light pollution of Tokyo. Before bed, I received a message from the host, detailing a full itinerary for my last day, pro-bono. An unstoppable force, I followed his words to the Nachi waterfall, stood tall and sturdy, no flimsy thing, raging down. An immovable object. I watched the water at the bottom weave and push its way through the earth on its way home. Can pilgrims get lost? I think most are. They feign an air of mystical wisdom, but need Google Maps to find a bus stop. In walking and walking and walking, I felt the illusion of forward motion, of progress. But walking can be leaving, and leaving can be cowardice. I didn’t want to go home, didn’t even know how.

Comfortable cottage, out of town and quiet at night. Owner very accommodating. He picked us up from the trail and dropped us back the next morning.

The accommodation is fantastic! the house is big ,clean and quiet. Firstly I thought the location is a little far away from the Kumano kodo and the Hongu Taisha. but the shuttle service provided by the host is sooo sweet and he can take us to the start spot every morning, so that we don't need to take any bus. This really save us a lot time. Additionally, the host are so nice that he help us to check the plan to make sure it is appropriate. By the way, the host is such a handsome gay with interesting lifestyle. It will be very pleasure to talk with him.